Bhutan - The Forgotten Country

[PeterRS]

Bhutan is perhaps best known for a comment made by its former King suggesting "gross national happiness" was a better guide for a nation than "Gross National Product." When I visited in 2007, the country had its fair share of poor people, but then it had only recently opened up to the rest of the world. Television had only been introduced in 2000 and the number of tourists that year was only around 7,000. By 2019 the number had increased to 316,000 and hotels had mushroomed. Whereas I stayed in a mix of simple hotels and guest houses, soon after you could spend five nights in different 5-star hotels. That said, I loved my two weeks in the country, the more so as every Bhutanese was friendly to what must to many have seemed like exotic foreign visitors.

One problem for Bhutan was its only international airport was at Paro and the arrival through the hills and mountains so tricky that few pilots were certified to land there. Now Bhutan is catching on to the wellness travel concept and is constructing an entirely new wellness town with a much larger airport at Gelephu close to the indian border. Its new airport will have a capacity of 123 flighs a day, compared to Paro's five - all from short haul destinations. 

Artist's rendition of new Bhitan airport: Photo BIG-Bjarke Ingels Group

Hopefully the new mass influx of tourism will not spoil the country as they have parts of Bali. As I discovered Bhutan is one of the gems of Asia and deserves to be seen and enjoyed. Hopefully once the new airport opens, the wealth of incoming visitors will trickle down to the poorer parts of the country.

 

Paro Airport

The Tiger's Nest Monastery percehd on a rockface 3,120 meters above ground level, the symbol of Bhutan

A monk outside paro monastery

Morning view

Phallic Images are common in the countryside, often painted on the outside of houses

The majestic Phunaka Dzong at the confluence of two rivers

Monk descending monastery stais

Wonderful artistic images adorn all monasteries

https://edition.cnn.com/2025/03/14/travel/bhutan-gelephu-international-airport-intl-hnk/index.html

[PeterRS]

I should have added a gay element to the above post. Through a friend I got to know an Englishman on my visit who had lived in Bhutan for around 30 years. He had come to Bhutan to teach the King English, loved the country and stayed on. A single man it was widely rumoured both by my friend and others that he was gay. in addition to his teaching, he would take the very occasional tour groups around the country, allegedly having a young man in each town whom he visited regularly. I had the pleasure of meetring him when he came to my Thimphu hotel for drinks. He then invited me to join a short trek he was leading the following day. Hearing from him so much about the country, its history and the King's plans to introduce democracy was utterly fascinating. Sadly, no information was given to me about any gay life.

Lastly, if anyone is thinking of visiting specifically to see the Himalayas, you'd be much better going to Nepal. The mountains in Bhutan are basically the lesser Himalayas. The most majestic 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 meters high peaks are best viewed from places like the Pokhara Valley in Nepal.

[fedssocr]

I was there in about 2010 or so. It is a beautiful and interesting place. I always felt like the "GNH" thing was just a way to cover for the lack of GNP. The history is quite interesting. But the treatment of ethnic Nepali people was abysmal. And all of the poor migrant workers from India fixing the dilapidated "national highway" certainly didn't live a very happy existence. But I suppose most countries have their good and bad sides. I just think it's odd that so many influencer types have been swayed by the GNH propaganda and think Bhutan is a country with no problems. It certainly is quite photogenic though. I was there 17 days and traveled all the way to the eastern edge and back to the western edge. It was a lot of riding in the back of a car. And the food was not great in those days. My guide explained that the little hotels and guest houses were required to serve the same bland food to foreigners. And there was very little meat available. I'm sure things have changed quite a bit in the intervening 15 years.

[PeterRS]

I agree entirely with @fedssocr's comments. Bhutan was not the idyllic paradise that GNH indicated and portrayed to the world. I do think we have to bear in mind, though, that it must have been a hugely difficult country to administer - if only because of its massively hilly terrain. To get from Punakha to Bumthang, the furthest east on my visit, was a journey of nearly 14 hours over 2 mountain passes. Yet the actual distance is only 217 kms! I understand there is now a direct road taking well under 4 hours. I also think the previous King has to be given credit for all but forcing democracy on the people, hardly any of whom wanted it! As he had told my friend, he felt democracy was the only way forward for his country, citing the example of neighbouring Sikkim which was gobbled up by India after rioting in the 1970s.

One thing disappointed me on that long trip. Due to the length pf that very long journey, I stupidly avoided a quick side trip to the Phobjhika Valley. This is where the rare black-necked cranes come to winter. I know from others they are a splendid and awe-inspiring sight. 

My guide (I was on a solo trip) and his colleague leading another tour group

Poverty is what it is, no matter you may be happy with your lot

An amusing sign on the door of a small Bumthang shop

[Raposa]

Bhutan is a gem, but at present there are few opportunities for its young people so they tend to emigrate, specially to Australia. 
Another old buddhist Himalayan kingdom is Lo in upper Mustang, now part of Nepal, with a similar Tibetan culture. It is an equally fascinating place.

Too bad you missed seeing the black necked cranes. That valley is fascinating and you can bike around.

[fedssocr]

I think the cranes are only there at certain times. If you can go during a festival they are quite an occasion and very colorful

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dJo8MxZDFPzVzhzw7

 

[PeterRS]

19 minutes ago, fedssocr said:

I think the cranes are only there at certain times. If you can go during a festival they are quite an occasion and very colorful

Thanks. I should have pointed out that they are usually there from late October to early-February.