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PeterRS

TALES from a GAY LIFE (mostly in Asia) – Part 4

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Posted

My most memorable excursions around the country have been boat journeys. The first was in the early 1990s - a ride on an open longtail boat from Tha Ton (right up north, near the Burma border, down the Kok river (a  tributory of the Mekong) to Chang Rai. It took just an afternoon, but it being an open canoe (albeit a motorised one) with no protection from the blazing sun, I was roasted by the time we reached Chiang Rai.

Tweny years later, it was another longtail boat (this time with cover) for a two-day journey upstream on the Mekong River, from Luang Prabang to the Lao town on the opposite bank of Chang Sean (I forget waht the Lao town was called). To be clear, it was in Laos, not Thailand. I loved that trip; we had to negotiate quite a few rapids, and the boat also stopped at several villages and hermitages along the way (the route serves locals mostly).

I have been wondering on and off whether it might be fun to go down the broader stretch of the Mekong from Nong Khai to maybe Pakse or, if possible all the way to Phnom Penh. But I don't see any organised route; though I am sure if I put on my younger backpacking self, I can do it without too much trouble. The only thing that makes me hesitate is if this more downstream stretch might be through too flat a region, so less interesting than the gorges and mountains up north.

Posted

Oh, and how can I forget!

A gun battle broke out while our open canoe was on the Kok river as we putt-putted our way through a steep valley. We could see flashes on the mountainside to our right. There was nowhere, absolutely nowhere, to duck or hide, save to jump into the fast-flowing river (which would have been too stupid to contemplate). Some locals on the boat screamed, but others didn't seem too panicky (it was mostly locals on the boat) - a relative calmness which was rather curious. Nor was the boatman too alarmed. He revved the engine, but kept going. In any case, what else could he do?

Soon, there were flashes of gunfire from the other side of the valley. But I also noticed that no bullets were piercing the water around us. We weren't being ambused from both sides. The boatman said something to the passengers in Thai, which of course I didn't understand. But it didn't take long for me to guess that it was actually a gun battle between two narcotics gangs who controlled opposite sides of the valley. They are aiming at each other, not us. Still, it was a relief when the shots died down soon after and we were several hundred metres further along. The fast river current helped.

 

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