Another Tokyo Side-Trip - Nikko

[Guest fountainhall]

In some previous posts, I have suggested side-trips which those visiting or stopping-over in Tokyo might wish to consider. Two days ago, after an absence of 30 years, I returned to the lovely town of Nikko.

Nikko is situated about 125 kms north-west of Tokyo at the foot of the mountains. It is of great historical interest and the location for some gorgeous temples and shrines all in one small area, rather like Luang Prabang in Laos. Now a World Heritage site, the UNESCO website gives several reasons for Nikko’s being awarded the accolade, including
 

The Nikko shrines and temples, a reflection of architectural and artistic genius, together with their environment, are an outstanding example of a traditional Japanese religious centre, associated with the Shinto perception of the relationship of man with nature, in which mountains and forests have a sacred meaning and are objects of veneration, in a religious practice that is still very much alive today.

 

Nikko’s importance is its association with the Shoguns who effectively ruled Japan from 1603 for more then 250 years. Whilst power ostensibly rested with the legitimate rulers of Japan, the Emperors, it was the military leaders – or Shoguns – who held absolute power. Isolating the Imperial family in Kyoto, Tokugawa Ieyasu became Shogun in 1603 and moved the shogunate to Edo, what is now Tokyo. Here the Shoguns were to rule until power was restored to Emperor Meiji in 1868.

The lavishly decorated Shinto shrine Toshogu in Nikko was built in 1617. It is dedicated to Ieyasu and is where his remains are buried. It is therefore of huge importance to all Japanese and attracts flocks of visitors all year round. So avoid a trip on Sundays if at all possible. Look up at the various gates you have to pass through before reaching the main Shrine, for the decoration is intricate and hugely impressive, almost overpowering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Near the entrance to the site are 16 carvings of monkeys each representing a cycle of life. One is well known, and presumably illustrates what you were supposed to do during the Shogun era – if you wanted to remain alive!


The Toshogu Shrine is just one of Nikko’s many Shinto and Buddhist temples and shrines. Almost as beautiful, but less flamboyantly decorated, is the Taiyuin Shrine and Mausoleum, the resting place of Ieyasu’s grandson, Iemitsu. It’s just a short 10-minute walk away, but once you get there you have to climb several long flights of steps to reach the temple itself, passing as you go through huge impressively decorated gates.

 

 

 

 

Also in Nikko is the large Tamozawa Villa which was until quite recently a summer home of the Emperors. Set just off the road up to the mountains, the simplicity of this very Japanese-style house contrasts with the sheer beauty of the surrounding gardens and hills.

 

Getting to Nikko is easy if you opt for one of the regular day trip coach tours from Tokyo. These cost between ¥12,500 and ¥14,000 (US$125 and $140), include access to several sites and lunch, and last about 11 hours. But you can save about 35% of that cost by arranging your own trip. It does take a bit of planning, though, and you also have to change trains en route. But there is a lot of information about trips on the internet, and your hotel concierge will help with details.

Arranging your own tour, get to Asakusa station (note – not Akasaka) by underground on the Ginza line and then buy a ticket for the hourly Tobu Rail service to Nikko/Kinugawa Onsen.

Station Counter

 

Platform Display

 

Train Carriage Display

 

The cost today is ¥5,250 and the journey takes about 2 hours. You change trains at Shimo-imaichi (which means just crossing the platform) for the last 10 minutes on a local train to Nikko. Once in Nikko, there is a tourist office in the station (on the left just before you leave) with details of buses to the main sites, including a special World Heritage ticket which gives you hop on/hop off access for a day and costs ¥1,000.

You then need to pay entrance fees to most of the sites. The Toshogu Shrine is the most expensive at ¥1,000, The others come in between around ¥300 and ¥500.

However you go, Nikko is an absolute must-see for anyone with a day to spare.

[KhorTose]

You are talking me into a trip to Japan. With the current exchange rate, it is dumb not to go now. Looking at plane tickets for two as I type. Thanks for posting.

[Guest fountainhall]

I am staying at the 5-star Tokyo Chinzanso Hotel (formerly the 4 Seasons) at the amazing deal which was offered through travelzoo.com back in November. 

 

http://www.gaythailand.com/forums/topic/8370-stunning-75-off-travelzoo-offer-for-tokyo-luxury-hotel/?hl=chinzanso

 

With the fall in the value of the ¥, the 75% reduction today works out at closer to 55 - 60%. But it is still a great deal for this city and the hotel is very impressive with huge rooms and lots of old world charm. It's set in a lovely garden where you can wander around and see no other buildings except the hotel - quite unusual in Tokyo. It's a 10-minute walk to the subway or about ¥1,000 in a cab from the Japan Railways Mejiro Station, so getting around is easy. About the only negative is that there is nothing near the hotel of interest. It's a residential area - no nearest convenience store round the corner. And eating in the hotel's many restaurants is not cheap. A full American breakfast is ¥3,000 - lovely restaurant with a view over to the garden's 3-storey pagoda, but pricey unless you can get it included in the room rate.

 

A great time to visit is late October/early November to get the start of the fall colours outside the city. Or wait till the very start of April when the sakura should be in full bloom.

[a447a]

Nikkou?  Kekkou!!

 

Thanks, Fountainhall.  I visited there often in my early days and LOVED it.

[KhorTose]

Good, now I have two people who can tell me about Tokyo. I just checked Korean air and I can fly to Japan from Chiang Mai via Inchon for $791 RT each.. Some quick questions:

1. Does my Thai partner need a visa. Some sites say yes, others say no!

2. How is Tokyo during July?

3, Best area to stay in---not interested in boys---well I am, but traveling with the BF.

4. I need to be able to find good places to eat, easy access to local sites and access to trains to visit places outside of Tokyo like Nikkou and Kyoto.

5. Must see in Tokyo and close to city via train?

 

Thanks for any help you two can give me. Oh planning to leave on the 14th and return on the 22nd. The 14th flight is a night flight from CNX arriving Tokyo 1130 AM. So seven days six nights.

[Guest fountainhall]

Unless the situation has changed in recent years, Thais do need visas. And the Japanese authorities place a lot of importance on the balance in a bank book built up over a period of time - not a one-off deposit. That plus a job/study course to return to with a letter from the employer/college.

 

Really sorry to tell you that July is horribly hot and humid, and often wet - almost the worst month weather-wise for travelling around. Even I don't enjoy being there in July, August or early September. I really would recommend you reconsider and wait until the humidity drops in the autumn. It's no fun dragging yourself around a huge city dripping with sweat.

 

I'd suggest staying in the Shinjuku area. There you are close to the major station with links to almost everywhere via the subway lines and Japan Railway lines. It's easy to get to from Narita airport as there's an hourly Airport Express train which stops at Shinjuku. There's hundreds of all types of eateries, lots of different types of shopping, from mini boutiques to large departments stores like Takashimaya and Keio, dozens of hotels - plus the gay area is close by.

 

Just make sure you have a good bilingual map as recommended in an earlier thread. Shinjuku station is so huge you need to know where you are and where you are going (and that's just within the station!).

[KhorTose]

Thanks for the warning about July. However, one of the best times I ever had was when I stayed in Paris for the whole month of November. It was cold and rainy almost every day, but---other then 2 million Frenchmen---I had the whole city to myself. Found a great apartment to stay at low cost, no lines at the tourist sites, no packed subways, people eager to wait on and help me who were not bombarded by tourist every five minutes. There really are advantages to going when no one else will go. I am more interested in the Historical places, the shrines, the museums and the arts then the countryside. I plan to spend my nights doing inside stuff and not strolling the streets. However, partner is not sure he wants to go to Japan at the moment. Thanks for the advice on where to stay and may wait until October, but curious about when the tourist are in Tokyo and when they are not.

[a447a]

Fountainhall got in before me!  haha

 

His suggestions are right on the button.  I always hated July.  Everything in the house got moldy and it was horrible. April and September are the best months for tourists.  New Year the best for locals.

 

I also agree that Shinjuku is the best place to stay.  It's got everything you could ever want.  Drop into the Takano Fruit Parlour just outside the east exit, opposite the ABCMart shoe shop and marvel at the most beautiful, perfect fruit you will ever see and eat! And wander around the food hall in the basement of Isetan Department Store, further down on the left.  You'll be amazed!

 

And, of course, ni-chome (the gay area) is just a short walk further down the street.

[KhorTose]

Okay, I am going to book September as that will be our forth anniversary and that is as good of reason as any for a trip. However, do tell me about the tourist levels.

[Guest fountainhall]

Tokyo does not attract nearly as many overseas tourists as cities like Paris - or even other major Asian cities like Bangkok, Hong Kong and Singapore. This seems to be changing, but only slowly, as the ¥ plummets in value and the country becomes more attractive as a tourist destination. You may come across some Asian tourists (the majority of overseas visitors by far are Koreans and Taiwanese) and obviously Japanese from elsewhere in the country. But the main Japanese holiday period is in August; so you will not be overwhelmed at any other time between July and October. Rather like New England, lots of Japanese travel to see fall colours starting from around mid-October onwards and that can be busy. But since you will travel before then, you will be fine.

 

Do note, however, that Tokyo is one huge sprawling urban mass with up to 24 million people (depending on how you define the city limits) packed into what is a relatively low-rise and therefore very spread out area. This puts massive pressure on the excellent public transport system during rush hours. So it's always best to plan each day to avoid these hours as far as possible.

 

I'm sure a447a , z909 and I can come up with ideas for things for you to do and see if you wish. You may remember I wrote a long blog-type thread last year which might make a useful starting point -

 

http://www.gaythailand.com/forums/topic/7804-tokyo-as-a-potential-stopover-blog/?hl=tokyo

[Guest]

You have to try Tokyo rush hour once.  Ideally, stand next to some adorably cute guy on the train, as you're going to be rammed up against each other .

 

If you can tolerate high humidity, July can be OK.  High humidity is very likely, but not guaranteed. Early July last year was pleasantly fresh.

September and October have the highest rainfall.  All depends on what you prefer. November is cool and drier.

 

If you're there for a couple of weeks, you can do Tokyo, Nikko, Mt Fuji, Kyoto, Nara, Himeji & even Hiroshima, making use of the Shinkansen.  

[Guest fountainhall]

You have to try Tokyo rush hour once.  Ideally, stand next to some adorably cute guy on the train, as you're going to be rammed up against each other .

 

Totally agree - but once may not be enough! Two days ago I was rammed in (literally - a couple of ladies did virtual rugby tackles just to squeeze into the carriage) and pushed next to a gorgeous guy and there was absolutely no space whatever to get the back of my hand away from the curvature of his ass. Well worth the ¥160 ($1.60) ticket!!

[a447a]

I used to LOVE rush hour!  I got touched up every morning and evening - and I do mean just about EVERY MORNING and EVENING- oh the train when I was a teenager - and older. hehe. 

 

Everyone wanted to touch a gaijin cock.  I met a number of guys that way and if I had the time, I was sometimes able to get off the train with them and go their apartments for a bit of fun.

 

Problem was, sometimes I would find myself squeezed up against an unattractive, old guy and I would have to get off at the next station and change carriages.

 

But I soon worked out how to spot cute guys waiting in line on the platform and make sure I could get near them once the pushing started. Or I'd take a quick look as I was being shoved onto the train from behind and try to manoeuvre my way next to someone.  After a while, I got to be quite an expert!  hehe

 

I reckon most of the guys weren't gay; they were just curious to see if gaijins really did have 12 inch cocks! 

 

Oh...the memories! 

 

Wouldn't happen now, though. 

[KhorTose]

Guys thanks for the rush hour tales, but I am going with my partner and we are a boring monogamous couple (his choice). I am going to add four days to the trip and do a layover in Seoul on the way. I plan just to go to Seoul, and maybe do a tourist thing to the DMZ. If any of you know the best area to find a hotel there let me know.

[Guest fountainhall]

Re Tokyo, if you can pm me with an idea of your budget and travel dates, I'll try and recommend a few hotels.

 

Itaewon used to be one of the 'in' places to visit in Seoul and I believe that remains true. But I see there is another area that gets good recommendations and might be interesting for your partner - near Hongik University. Wherever you stay, make sure you are close to an underground station. Traffic in Seoul is as bad as any other major Asian city.

 

For sightseeing, because the city is very spread out and you can spend an age getting from one place to another, you may well be better opting for organised coach tours taking in what you want to see. If you are interested in western culture, there are some great concerts and other events in Seoul. The Seoul Arts Center has a world-class opera house and concert hall, and there are several other excellent arts venues.

 

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SH/SH_EN_7_2_6_1.jsp

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g294197-d1958940-r120485538-Surrounding_area_of_Hongik_University-Seoul.html

http://www.sac.or.kr/eng/

[KhorTose]

Thank you both for your help and advice. FH I will PM you with the details. We are waiting until June to book to see what the US courts do about DOMA. If it passes we will still make the trip, but make it a three country stop ending up in Seattle.

[Guest fountainhall]

When you fly out of Tokyo, provided it is daylight or dusk and you have a seat on the right side of the plane, you should get some decent pics of Mt. Fuji. The plane windows will bleach out most of the colour and definition, but you can add much of that back on the computer. After we broke through the clouds last Friday, the view was great.

 

 

[Guest fountainhall]

I should have added - "when you fly south out of Tokyo". You normally won't get these views if you are flying to the US.

[Guest]

Here are some photos on taken on Mt Fuji. Sorry for lack of photography skill.

[Guest fountainhall]

Did you climb up, z, or take the bus most of the way, as I did years ago?

[Guest]

I parked the car @ 1400metres & it's necessary to walk to the top from there.  About another 2400m.

Off season, with no slow locals in the way, that was quite quick.

 

I would like to walk it from sea level some time.  That would take longer.