Istanbul - by request

[Guest fountainhall]

This is in reply to frecat69's request for info and pics on Istanbul.

 

I really do envy you making a first trip to Istanbul. I have visited twice – the first in 2000 for 3 days, and another 3-day trip around 2008. Both were in August, and therefore hot and sticky. The first trip I stayed at what was then the Hyatt (now the Grand Hyatt) in the Taksim district using points – a far more modern (and boring) area compared to the Sultanahmet district area across the Golden Horn where most of the sights are. For the second trip, I stayed at a small hotel literally round the corner from The Blue Mosque, and so I could walk or take the tram to most places.

 

Blue Mosque

 

 

However, if you are near any mosque in Istanbul (difficult not to be!), then you should take wax earplugs or you will be woken very early in the mornings.

 

The second hotel was the Ibrahim Pasha which has a lovely roof terrace with a great view of the Blue Mosque. You can find details of it here –

 

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/sep/14/10-best-boutique-hotels-istanbul

 

I got the hotel to arrange transport from the airport and the pick-up was very simple. The area could not be better. Not only is the Blue Mosque on your doorstep, the Hagia Sophia is only another 200 meters away. That was being renovated on my last visit as Istanbul was about to be Europe’s City of Culture. But even with scaffolding in part of it, you cannot be anything but staggered but the interior. It was of course an enormous Greek Orthodox Church from as early as the 7th century. When the Ottoman Turks finally seized the city in 1453, they turned it into a mosque. It is therefore a totally unique building. When you go inside, make sure you go upstairs to the 2nd level. Not only do you get great photos from above, you will see several ancient and well-preserved mosaics.

 

Hagia Sophia

 

 

 

 

 

Also close by is another of the absolute must-sees – Topkapi Palace. This was the seat of Ottoman power and where the Sultans lived in amazing splendor for more than 3 centuries. It is a vast rambling complex of buildings with lots to see, especially the gorgeous Iznik tile work. When you get a little peckish, head for the north east corner. Down some steps there is a lovely little open-air café with great coffee or apple tea and enticing sweet baklava. It also has a splendid view across to the Asian side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whilst most buildings can be seen in an hour or so, you definitely need a good half day for Topkapi Palace. If you are flush and in the mood for a good lunch, head south a bit to the Four Seasons Hotel set in a narrow street behind the Blue Mosque, This used to be a prison, and has been converted into a 5-star hotel. If you remember the movie “Midnight Express”, this was the prison where the real Billy Hayes was jailed (although for the movie they had to recreate it in Malta). I had a splendid lunch in the garden on my first visit.

 

The tram system runs alongside Haghia Sophia and takes you to most of the places you’ll want to see. You can purchase a batch of 10 tokens at the kiosks near the stops. Use one token for each ride. Go east and you soon come to the Grand Bazaar. Be careful, though, for you will quickly lose your bearings as it is so extensive. Have a map handy. Like all bazaars, the merchants are expert hagglers, so don’t consider buying something unless you really want it. My friend was totally ripped off when he purchased a carpet bag he had said he liked, but didn’t really want - and later never used!

 

 

 

 

Close to the Bazaar is the 16th century Suleymaniye Mosque, one of the masterpieces of the architect, Mimar Sinan, and worth a quick visit. If you like to go back even further in history, keep moving further west till you are close to the old city walls and visit the lovely little Church of St. Saviour in Chora. Although stripped of much of its mosaics and decoration, what is left gives you an indication of the Byzantine splendor that covered much of the city’s famous buildings, and it is allegedly the most important surviving examples of art from that period.

 

Now take the tram in the other direction. Past Hagia Sohia, it winds down a hill till you come to the waterfront and then cross the main bridge.

 

 

Get off at the other side. Although it’s a bit of a hike, walk up the little hill and you will see a tall round tower. Built around 1350, the Galata Tower offers amazing views across the Golden Horn to Sultanahmet, especially on clear days. And don’t worry. There’s a lit to take you up to the top!

 

 

Also on this side and worth visiting is the relatively nearby Pera Palace Hotel. This was where travellers on the original Orient Express used to stay. One of its most famous guests was Agatha Christie – presumably when she was writing her novel “Murder on the Orient Express”. On my first visit, the ground floor dining room and the elevators were more or less as they had been when the hotel opened. In 2008, the hotel was undergoing refurbishment, but I believe some of the original remains – and there is a little museum.

 

Last first thoughts! You must get out on the water. There are ferries galore that will take you across to the Asian side. Try to get there around late afternoon and then watch the sunset over the mosques on the other side. Another very pleasant trip is a 2-hour cruise up and down the Bosphorus. This takes you past some interesting buildings, including Dolmabace Palace which eventually became the home of the Sultans. If you have time, it is also worth taking a guided tour around the Palace.

 

 

But before you visit, you must try and brush up on some of the history, for Byzantium/Constantinople/Istanbul is at the centre of one of the most interesting and fascinating periods of world history. I’m not in Bangkok now and cannot recall a pocket-sized illustrated book which sums up the history without having to wade through masses of detail. I’ll post that when I am back next week.

 

But you really should know something about the Roman Empire and how it was split into the Western and Eastern halves when it became too big to rule from Rome. How in the early 4th century AD the Emperor Constantine chose the fishing town of Byzantium as the Eastern capital, and then converted to the new religion of Christianity. Of the enormous spread of the Byzantine Empire once the Roman Empire died. Of the clash with the new religion of Islam. The split between the Catholic Church and the ‘true’ Orthodox religion.  Of the Fall of Jerusalem and the calls for Crusades to restore it back for Christianity. Of the rivers of blood spilled by the Christians. Of the Fourth Crusade led by the wily octogenarian Archbishop Dandolo of Venice whose hidden mission was not to try to retake Jerusalem – again – but to rape Constantinople of its riches and carry them back to Venice (where some are still on display). Of how this so weakened the Byzantine Empire that it started the rot which led to its fall in 1453. And of how the new Tsars of Russia seeking a religion, found and took back the Orthodox Christianity being practiced n Byzantium. There is just so much that is so fascinating!

 

If you want any more specific info, please send me a PM.

[firecat69]

I knew I could count on you . I have been salivating over this visit for 6 months. I have 5 nights and am staying in a very old (1875)building that has been converted into Luxury Apartments.  www.galataflats.com   Most apartments have a view of Galata Tower.  I am hoping May was the right month , not too hot or cold.

 

Again thanks!!!

[TotallyOz]

Fantastic Thread and Photos. FH for blogger of the year!

 

Firecat, I know you are excited about this trip. I can't wait to see the photos.

[baobao]

A splendid report about a magnificent adventure. I'm also a firm believer in learning more than a smidgen about a destination.

 

Thank you so much for posting this... I've added Istanbul to the bucket list!

[Guest fountainhall]

Just correcting an error. Going from Hagia Sophia to the Grand Bazaar, you go west - not east!! You then continue on west to the Church of St. Saviour in Chora.

 

If you have not yet got a Guide Book, I swear by the DK Eyewitness Guides which have fantastic maps and area drawings in addition to descriptions. You can also opt for the smaller pocket book sized "Top 10 Istanbul" by the same publisher which condenses much of the information into easier sections. I now mostly use these Top 10 guides for shortish trips.

[Guest colinr]

If you have time you can take a boat trip to Princes Islands. "Big Island" (Buyuk Ada - sorry no umlauts for the u's) is I think the final destination, where you can take a tour in a horse-drawn carriage. There were people speaking 15th century Spanish when I visited (Sephardis) - they still had a Spanish (sort of) newspaper in Istanbul then but this was some time ago and things may have changed. A bit of German is also useful in Turkey.

[Guest fountainhall]

firecat69 - the small book I was recommending is titled "The Crusaders: Warriors of God" by Georges Tate and published by Harry N. Abrahams Inc in New York as part of a "Discoveries" series. Much of it is illustration but it goes nicely and succinctly into the history of the region, including Istanbul. It's available from a number of sellers through amazon.com. Check - Discoveries: Crusaders (Discoveries (Harry Abrahams)) [Paperback]

 

[firecat69]

I will check it out after I am back in the USA in 2 days.

 

Thanks