The Thai Wat

[Bob]

Every month or two, I tend to visit and photograph a wat or two three here in Chiangmai. For those few lost souls who might want to know, the following is offered:

 

A wat can be loosely translated as a monastery or a temple which has an enclosing wall that divides it from the secular world.  It's not a building but the entire grounds on which the various temples other structures are located.  The word "wat" comes from the Pali word "vata" which means "enclosure."

 

A wat has two main sections, the poottawaat (the area dedicated to Buddha) and the sangkaawaat (the general living quarters for the monks).

 

1.  Poottawaat.  This area usualy contains several buildings including:

 

a. A "jedee" or "Chedi."  In English, we also call these structures a "stupa" or even a "pagoda."  Typically, the Chedi is a bell-shaped tower which usually contains a chamber with one or more Buddha relics (but may also be built to contain the ashes of a king or an important monk).  And often the structure is covered in gold leaf.  For wats built in the Khmer or Ayutthaya periods, this building is called a "bprang" and looks more (for lack of a better description) like a Khmer temple tower.

 

b.  A "bot" or "oobosot."  This is the ordination hall and is considered the most sacred part of the wat as it's the place where the monks take their vows.  You often can recognize the building as a bot by the 8 boundary stones ("bai sema") that define the limits of its sanctuary.  Most bots face east ( I have no idea why).

 

c.  Wihaan.  This is the shrine hall that contains the principle Buddha images and it's the assembly hall where the monks and believers congregate.  A wat can have more than one wihaan (but only one bot).

 

d.  Montop.  Typically, this is a bulding or shrine with a specific square or cruciform shape with, typically, a spired roof.  It usually houses relecs, sacred scriptures, or simply serves the purpose of a shrine.

 

e.  Hawdtrai.  This is the the temple library which houses the sacred Tirpitaka scriptrues (which, traditionaly, are written on palm leaves).  You'll typically see in this building various bookcases, some exquisitely crafted with mother-of-pearl inlay or with gold leaf applied on black lacquer).

 

f.  Sala.  Simply an open pavilion providing shade and a place to rest.

 

g. Salagaanbparian.  Usually, this is a large, open, hall where lay people can hear sermons or receive religious education (e.g., to study graduate theology) and the building that's often used for saying afternoon prayers.

 

h.  Hawrakang.  The bell tower used for waking the months and to anounce the morning and evening ceremonies. In some older temples, this is a drum tower (called a hawglawng).  

 

i.  Other buildings.  Some wats also have a columned or formal courtyard (called a rabiang), a crematorium, and even a school.

 

2.  Sangkaawaat.  Mainly, this area contains the living quarters for the monks and can have the following buildings:

 

a.  A gootee or goodee (often spelled in English "kuti"). Historically, these were small structures built on stilts designed to house a monk but modern kutis take the shape of an apartment building with small rooms for the monks.

 

b.  Sometimes the belltower or the saalaagaanbparian is located in the sangkaawaat.

 

c.  And the sangkaawaat also contains the functional builidngs of the wat - the kitchen building or facilities, sanitary facilities, etc.

[baobao]

Excellent start for a thread, Bob. It sounds like you gather enough information (and photos?) to add to this every so often, and that would be welcomed by more than a few of us, I dare say.  

 

I'm willing to occasionally add to it myself, if that's OK, and hope others would, too. Sometimes a another set of eyes can see the same place differently, so I wouldn't object to several others commenting on the same place. Chiang Mai is especially rich with interesting spots.  Thanks for posting this!

[TotallyOz]

Here are a few threads of years gone by that have some temple photos.

 

Like BaoBao, I love this thread. Thanks Bob!

 

http://www.gaythailand.com/forums/topic/8529-trip-report-isan-for-new-years-plus-wat-kham-pramong/?hl=temple

 

http://www.gaythailand.com/forums/topic/8282-sanctuary-of-truth-in-pattaya-a-few-photos/?hl=temple

 

http://www.gaythailand.com/forums/topic/7777-bangkoks-penis-shrine/?hl=temple&do=findComment&comment=56104

 

http://www.gaythailand.com/forums/topic/6662-chiang-mai-4-days-in-the-temple-for-young-boys/?hl=temple

[Guest fountainhall]

Great thread, Bob! Hope it will be the first of many explaining more of Thai culture and traditions.

 

Here are a few photos which I hope will illustrate your description of 1.a - the chedi. Appropriately all are from Chiang Mai and the surrounding area. Not sure about No. 2 - the structure with the horse and carriage before it. But it is chedi-like!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bob]

Khun FH, do you know where photo #2 was taken.  I don't seem to recognize that one at all, although it has very similar architecture to the Chedi (or,perhaps, Bprang) at Wat Santhitam.  Seems somewhat Khmer to me rather than Thai.

 

Your first photo is from the ruins of the original Chiangmai about 3-4 miles southeast of the current "old city."  Not too many people (falang, anyway) ever get out to see those interesting ruins.  Your second photo is, of course, the beautiful  and probably most famous Chedi we have up here at the wat on Suthep mountain (Doi Suthep).

 

At some point, I'll sign up again for an online photo website so I can post photos here.  If/when I do that and if I post photos of various temples in and around Chiangmai, I'll likely do that in separate threads.  We do have some interesting ones around here such as the Shan temple (Wat Goo Dtao) with the "watermelon" stupa/chedi and one south of the old city made almost entirely of tin.

[Guest fountainhall]

FInally worked it out! It's Wat Kuu Kham on the way to Lamphun. Here's a couple more pics.

 

 

 

I agree, more people should spend more time outside the city as thee are lots of interesting sights. I would not have ventured so far, but some years ago a young Thai and his sister insisted on driving me around the outskirts. That's the only reason I have the photos!

[Bob]

Thanks....was almost going to guess Lampang because of the horse and buggy.

[Guest thaiworthy]

A beautiful landscape in the north of Thailand . . . Doi Inthanon. Pagodas to Their Majesties the King and Queen.

 

[Guest fountainhall]

A little off topic but Doi Inthanon has wonderful waterfalls that are magnificent in the rainy season.

[TotallyOz]

A beautiful landscape in the north of Thailand . . . Doi Inthanon. Pagodas to Their Majesties the King and Queen.

And, if I remember correctly, the highest point in Thailand.

 

I have been there twice. It really is beautiful!

[TotallyOz]

A little off topic but Doi Inthanon has wonderful waterfalls that are magnificent in the rainy season.

Yes, they are. Here are a few photos of the waterfalls I took several years back.

[TotallyOz]

Here is one temple that we just passed by on a bike ride I did several years back. I think I wrote about it in that long thread. It was below Hua Hin and it was simply beautiful. The great thing about taking your time to see Thailand is that every city you pass through has some of these temples and it is beautiful and stunning!

[TotallyOz]

Here are a few scenes I saw when I was in Issan. I loved the temples there.

[Guest fountainhall]

One of the joys of visiting Thai temples is not only are the external structures so beautiful – as in these two pics from Chiang Mai and Maha Sarakham –
 

Chiang Mai

 

Maha Sarakham

– there is so much to see in the detail, especially the doors, windows and roofs. Sometimes you will find an older temple still with their original wall paintings –

 

Chiang Mai

 

Chiang Mai

 

Maha Sarakham

 

Outside Pattaya

 

Chiang Mai

 

Chiang Mai

 

 

[ceejay]

How many times have you heard a visitor say "Once you've seen one wat, you've seen them all" or something like that? I've seen the expression "watted out" used on some travel blogs. I for one will never be "watted out". The variety is endless. Apart from the classical wat styles there are many wats that are one of a kind, often the vision of one man. These are a few of them:

Wat Lan Kuad in Sisaketh, which is constructed entirely from recycled bottles

Wat Muang in Ubon Ratchathani, which has not one but two "boat" buildings. It is also the only Wat I have ever seen with a cemetery in the grounds - the Wat has a strong Chinese influence

Wat Nong Bua, also in Ubon Ratchathani, which follows the layout of the Mahabodhi temple in India, located on the spot where the Buddha is believed to have found enlightenment.

This is a coin operated fortune telling machine in Wat Nong Bua (something very Thai about that!)

Wat Nivet Thamaprawat, in an island on the Chato Praya river. It is part of the Bang Pa In palace complex. Can best be described as being in Portmerion Gothic style (complete with stained glass windows showing events in the life of the Buddha)

Wat Pan Non Sawan in Roi Et province. The grounds are full of statues of animals of all sorts, including dinosuars outside the main entrance. It also has a large, and lurid "Hell Garden"

They don't have to be buildings either.

Huai Bon cave in Fang is, I believe not technically a Wat. It has a community of forest monks, however, and the "temple" is a series of linked underground caves.

They don't have to be Buddhist, either.

Sala Keo Kou (also known as Wat Khaek) in Nongkhai is another Wat with an extensive sculpture garden. It was the personal vision and work of a Lao called Bunleat Sourirat and the main building is now his mausoleum. The community there describe themselves as a "lay contemplative community" rather than a religious one (although the iconography is Buddhist and Hindu)

Wat Ban Song Khon in Mukdahan is Catholic, a shrine to the "Seven Blessed Martyrs of Thailand. It's an extraordinary building, reputedly the largest Catholic church in SE Asia. One of the more macabre features is effigies of the seven martyrs, laid out in coffins with glass lids.

[Guest fountainhall]

And if you ever have any specific points you'd like to know about wats, there are sometimes little clinics! This is at Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai.

 

[kokopelli]

I love the photo of the wolves(dogs) riding the motorbikes.

[Guest thaiworthy]

I would really like to participate in a monk chat in Bangkok. Anyone have any recommendations? What is the suggested donation?

[Rogie]

I'd never come across monk chat until FH posted that banner. I hope you find one in Bkk TW. If you find one, please let us know how it went. I've always found the monks that speak some English friendly and approachable, but as I am not a Buddhist I haven't got any more out of it other than a pleasant exchange.

[Guest fountainhall]

But note, Khun Rogie, the chat is not restricted to Buddhism. The last word on the right is "Anything"! That leaves the door, wide, wide open. And unlike in the Catholic tradition, you won't have to do any penance whatever after you have confessed our sins! 

[ChristianPFC]

Wat Muang in Ubon Ratchathani, which has not one but two "boat" buildings. It is also the only Wat I have ever seen with a cemetery in the grounds - the Wat has a strong Chinese influence

 

I know several wats that have a cemetery or tombs or a columbarium on the temple grounds, here a list of those that come to mind:

 

Wat Prasi (พระศรี) (Bangkok, Pahonyothin/Chaengwattana/Ramintra/Laksi Monument) has chinese tombs,

a Wat on Bang Krachao (Samut Prakan) has chedi-style spires with ashes and a name plaque and picture of the deceased,

a Wat near Pak Kret has the same,

Wat Intharawihan (standing Buddha, Bangkok), has a columbarium,

Wat Pasi (ภาษี) (Bangkok, Ekkamai/Saen Saeb Canal) has name plaques on the wall of the temple building (i.e. the ashes are in the wall of the temple),

Wat Prok (Sathorn) has the wall to the street filled with name plaques (probably with ashes of the deceased behind)

 

Related note: someone asked on one of the gay Thailand forums (I don't remember which one) why candles in wats are always orange. I recently saw black candles for use on a Rahu shrine (ราหู god of darkness), as well as black roses and black joss sticks.

[Bob]

Most chedis contain the ashes of either important royalty or revered monks.  Here in Chiangmai, for example, Wat Suan Dok (on the south side of Suthep Road, about 600 yards west of the moat) has many mini-chedis which house the ashes of many of the Chiangmai kings (those that ruled from about the 1790's, after the Burmese were finally booted out, until the early 20th century).  Wat Suan Dok also has one larger chedi but that houses Buddhist relics only.

 

With respect to actual Buddha relics, there are so many "genuine" relics everywhere (temples inThailand, India, Burma, Sri Lanka, etc.) that the real Buddha had to have been gargantuan in size (i.e., most the relics obviously have to be wishful thinking).

[ceejay]

Strictly speaking a cemetery is a burial ground and that is the sense in which I was using it. What is unusual in Wat Muang is an area of Chinese type tombs in which the remains of the deceased are interred, as opposed to being kept above ground in Chedis, walls, columbines or similar repositories.