Phnom Penh, Angkor, Koh Ker and Sambor Prey Kuk - trip to Cambodia in Jan 2024

[vinapu]

5 hours ago, Keithambrose said:

Airport highway is a toll road, and , under the 50 year contract with the Chinese, cannot be altered. Money goes to Chinese. They are building a town there, with Casino, called Yunnan City. 'They can't even use a Cambodian name', my driver said, in a disgusted tone. He added, 'We are part of China now'.

comments of my driver were to the same tune , perhaps even harsher as he knows me from before so felt free to went  his opinions out.

 

By end of this year we may have similar situation with Phnom Penh new airport  due to open soon, also miles from the city. At least then on will be busy as it can be argued with more success that Pochentong ( current airport) is filling up it's capacity fast.

[vinapu]

Day 11

 We raised to the sound of alarm clock at 6.45, prepared goods for today’s sightseeing and made sure to be first when they started serving breakfast in hotel at 7.30 because as suspected, my driver pulled in at 8 am on the dot.

Plan for today was ambitious with 7 temples and first we set off was the farthest from the list- Banteai Srei. Not only because I consider smart thing to start sightseeing from  most distant place just in case something happens and even more important, Banteai Srei  is only temple where you can buy Angkor ticket apart from official ticket selling office on outskirts of Siem Reap.

 There are 3 kinds of tickets available – 1 day for 37 $, 3 days within 10 days for 62$ and 7 days within 30 days for 72 $. Payment in dollars only , that was only place where they are  not accepting  riels. I opted for 3 days ticket because after tomorrow I’m planning Bang Melea temple and recent change was to remove separate ticket there and include it in Angkor ticket. Good news for some and not so good as we learn for others.

Another bonus of Banteai Srei ticket office was that there we no lineups.

 That temple is one of smallest Angkor temples but definitely most richly decorated and also one of most popular so it pays to be there early which we could appreciate when leaving and hordes in vans and tour buses start arriving.

 

 

Next one is along with Ta Som my favorite -Banteai Samre. It’s quite a distance from main complex and  one of least crowded. When I was there in 2001  there was no infrastructure there at all but now there are restaurants , toilets, souvenir stands and even guys playing Khmer music for donation. Often overlooked there is former ceremonial alley leading to the temple – on your left when you approach temple complex .

 

Third one was of course Ta Som, at end of complex there gate enveloped by the tree , one of those iconic Angkor places. Again , in 2001 that tree was not trimmed yet, whet we see now is later job.

If you are there make sure to go to the very end and then turn back to appreciate the sight. I stress it because I saw people missing it ‘ lets return , it’s only that small gate there” .

 

 Then Easten Mebon as I missed her in 2022 and lunch in some restaurant picked by driver which was not a good idea to leave that to him. He led us to typical crowded and overpriced tourist locale geared toward bus tours. Not that is busted my wallet but there are plenty of places I’d chose instead.

 

After lunch we did three biggies ; Ta Prohm famous for giant trees eating into ruins but also I suspect holding them together.

Then Bayon with hundreds of stone faces with mysterious smile

 

and to crown of today’s selection Angkor Wat itself , biggest and most magnificent of them all.

 

S, my guy as I expected was ideal tour companion, interested in sightseeing with none of those ‘ are we done already ? ” . Quite opposite after climbing highest level of Angkor and subsequent wandering through all level below I was ready to skip first floor galleries only to hear ‘ what ?, lets go”. It was really uplifting to see guy so interested in his country heritage.

 

After such busy and intensive day we returned to the room quite tired. After it got dark we picked up ourselves to go for dinner and then,  I swear it was not me, S suggested we go to 168 massage for massage. So we did .

 

 My boy was quite good and good looking too. Later and in the room I senses bit of jealousy ,S asking what we did to each other with the boy and visibly not believing my answers. Massage was 10$ for 1 hr, I tipped my guy 20$, S tipped his only 6$ but he was adamant it was nothing that just massage even if I did not really care having good idea how those stores are operating.

 

Then he had another idea – to check Barcode bar so we went there but it was bit too early with only few patrons and working boys. We had drink and returned home . No need for me to stay and watch he show when I have in my room guy  better looking that their selection, not to mention of tested quality.

 

[vinapu]

Day 12

 Today  we repeated yesterday’s morning routine, breakfast was quite pleasant affair as I noticed few other patrons including few young girls were following S when he was picking his food and drinks and I swear  I was object of their jealousy having landed such handsome guy in jeans showing quite a nice bulge.  Doubt anybody was thinking ‘ oh that’s is guy with his grandson” . I did not mind S sending some smiles toward those girls fully knowing who winner is, let them have it.

Today’s destination is Sambor Prey Kuk, temple complex predating Angkor with most temples made not of stone but of bricks  from 7^th century on,  located near Khompong Thom , half way to Phnom Penh. It took us 3 hours to get there.

 Entry is 10$ , they suggested hiring guide for the same amount and I agreed . She even dragged with her another girl- guide in training. Having guide there is good idea as objects are dispersed in the forest , trails  are well marked but still  on you own one may miss this or that.

 

 

 

It took us about 3 hours to visit every corner, I tipped that trainee 5$ then we went to local restaurant for a meal , 16.50 $ for three, not  a bad deal .

 Again long trip home , fortunately today Saturday  traffic was quite light and it was driver suggestion we go there on Saturday as he was afraid Sunday traffic will be heavier.

At home S suggested artistic part – dinner with Apsara traditional dance show on Pub Street so we went there. I like when my travel companions have own ideas not only asking “what we are doing now ? ”. At the table beside us young farang couple was sitting and I noticed both of them were paying an attention to S presence . Bit later when we had chance meeting on the street they even said  " Hi " to him ignoring me entirely. You can't imagine how my fragile ego was hurt at that moment

I meantime S got message from his bar friend , Siem Reap native,  who came  to see his folks at home and when he show me his picture it turned out I also know him from 2 long time offs, one threesome included. So we went to see him , he was dining with another boy and somebody suggested ‘lets go check Barcode “.

I offered to finance that escapade but at the door we were sent away- today bar closed for some private function. Other two boys said they are going to bed and that was idea S and I borrowed from them so we parted ways every couple marching to different bed. I had another senior moment – why I did not suggest  “ lets go all to our room”. Knowing that friend there was chance idea would be approved. Oh well. S and me still managed to had some fun including feasting on some pistachios and fruit while sitting naked on balcony right above hotel’s pool closed at that hour.

[floridarob]

49 minutes ago, vinapu said:

every couple marching to different bed.

Marching is a common term used here....I imagine you guys literally marching to your rooms, then I start to giggle....

 

50 minutes ago, vinapu said:

feasting on some pistachios and fruit while sitting naked on balcony

Also got visuals and giggled to the images in my mind of you feeding each other fruit....

[Keithambrose]

5 hours ago, floridarob said:

Marching is a common term used here....I imagine you guys literally marching to your rooms, then I start to giggle....

 

Also got visuals and giggled to the images in my mind of you feeding each other fruit....

I trust bananas were involved!

[10tazione]

On 2/13/2024 at 12:21 PM, vinapu said:

Yesterday I purchased tour to Killing Fields.

Did you see any additional value in the tour?

Toul Sleng and Killing fields both have excellent audio guides and i really hate going from hotel to hotel to pickup people.

[vinapu]

11 hours ago, floridarob said:

Also got visuals and giggled to the images in my mind of you feeding each other fruit....

feeding each other ? what da ya mean ? we are not boyfriends, just roommates

[vinapu]

6 hours ago, Keithambrose said:

I trust bananas were involved!

rightly so, one was even unusually meaty for banana with something like low cut grass at one end. GM at work I wondered?

[vinapu]

1 hour ago, 10tazione said:

Did you see any additional value in the tour?

Toul Sleng and Killing fields both have excellent audio guides and i really hate going from hotel to hotel to pickup people.

material value  was that it was likely cheaper than taking my own tuk-tuk , but when all that waiting and driving to pick up and distribute people is accounted for  probably it would be better to fork extra 5-10$ and doing  it by private tour. Movie played in the van was excellent though.

Visiting in neither place is nothing pleasant, I still did not brave myself to repeat visit to Tuol Sleng after my first one in 2001 but next time I will go. when I was there then they still had that infamous map of Cambodia made of skulls, hence removed due to intranational outcry and rightly so. Still it's a must if one wants to understand Cambodia history. It needs to be appreciated that they are not trying to hide anything but when you see somebody like 70-75 on the road you wonder where they were in say 1977, toiling under the sun or killing or both.

Hotel jumping to collect people  is inevitable part of most tours everywhere also I always ask it there's place I can go and board the bus / van. Sometimes we may have luck like me on Phuket later on, all participants were from only 3 hotels , all in very close proximity at Patong so it took perhaps lass than 10 mins to have everybody on the board.

[Keithambrose]

33 minutes ago, vinapu said:

rightly so, one was even unusually meaty for banana with something like low cut grass at one end. GM at work I wondered?

You never know....

[vinapu]

Day 13.

 For today’s trip Christian PFC , famous blogger  https://christianpfc.blogspot.com/ 

who happened to be in Siem Reap at this time is joining S and me for the trip. Destination of Koh Ker and on our way back -Bang Melea.

 As before,   we departed at 8 on the dot and it’s  about  2 hrs. drive to Koh Ker. Admission 15 $.

Temple is very unusual for Angkor temples as it’s pyramid shaped and would not be out of place in Chitzen Itza or other Mayan sites. Of course we climbed it as first step, wise move as more tourists arrived.

 

After surveying pyramid and main temple underneath we surveyed about 10 smaller temples  in the surrounding forest , all accessible by the vehicle. Then returned to main temple area for a lunch  and on our way back checked another 2 or 3, last of them close to the exit Prasat Pram turned out to be second best to main temple only.

 

Then to Bang Melea. Last time I was there my time was spoiled by 2 busloads of Chinese tourist who behaved below any standards, screaming and climbing ruins even where prohibited. This time , in the afternoon , just before closing time it was much more serene and most tourists at that time  seemed to be locals.

 It used to be 5$ admission but now Bang Melea is included in Angkor ticket. Do not even try to arrive without one as guards were quite adamant to require one and even if they let you go , there’s another ticket check at main complex . Unfortunately that was our Christian’s fate but he patiently waited for s and me having driver as companion.

 Bang Melea is perhaps most atmospheric from all Angkor temples, specially if not crowded with it labyrinthine construction and deep shade from trees growing on the stones .

 

 

Back in Siem Reap I secured our driver for trip to the airport tomorrow and  three of us went for pizza to Pub street.

 

Today is my last day in Cambodia and I was proud of my budgeting. After putting aside some money for the maid in hotel and for driver for the fare tomorrow  I was left with 1$ and 1000 riels .

For said dollar I bought my last Hanuman Black and 1000 riels took home as memento.

 

As for entrainment, again  some whispers on balcony  while emptying that hanuman and another one I had in the refrigerator already.

Nosy person should ask what about S ?  Shouldn’t you give him at least that 1000 riels?  Relax , all was fixed in advance as he preferred to be  compensated in baht and in Bangkok.

 

Day 14

 

After breakfast we parted ways , S went to see his folks with plan to come to Bangkok in the evening and I at 9 jumped into car and went in style to the airport. In 45 minutes I was there, this time admitted to the departure area. Since Keithambrose already placed pictures above no need for repeat but I need to mention I notices that all signs in departure are were in English and Chinese, nothing in Khmer in their own country !

 

[vinapu]

this report is to be continued here upon return to Thailand

https://www.gayguides.com/forums/topic/41442-better-to-be-retired-than-retarded-thailand-and-cambodia-in-january-2024-trip-report-brief-but-long/page/2/#comment-375528

 

[reader]

Your photo tours of the ruins much appreciated as I’ve never been to Cambodia. 
 

36 minutes ago, vinapu said:

 …. but I need to mention I notices that all signs in departure are were in English and Chinese, nothing in Khmer in their own country !

Not an oversight I’m sure. It’s China’s way of subjugating Cambodians. They’re telling them that learn to speak in Chinese.

[vinapu]

29 minutes ago, reader said:

Your photo tours of the ruins much appreciated as I’ve never been to Cambodia. 

that is outright sin

[vinapu]

30 minutes ago, reader said:

Not an oversight I’m sure. It’s China’s way of subjugating Cambodians. They’re telling them that learn to speak in Chinese.

I believe you are correct, but it may backfire as from many comments I heard during week there people seem to know very well of what is  going on.

[Keithambrose]

6 hours ago, reader said:

Your photo tours of the ruins much appreciated as I’ve never been to Cambodia. 
 

Not an oversight I’m sure. It’s China’s way of subjugating Cambodians. They’re telling them that learn to speak in Chinese.

As Vinapu says, you should get to Cambodia. Very interesting, terrible history to consider, and attractive boys!

[reader]

51 minutes ago, Keithambrose said:

As Vinapu says, you should get to Cambodia. Very interesting, terrible history to consider, and attractive boys!

Too old to want to chase terrible history and Thailand provides more attractive boys than I can handle. A man has to know his limitations.

[vinapu]

2 hours ago, reader said:

Too old to want to chase terrible history and Thailand provides more attractive boys than I can handle. A man has to know his limitations.

terrible part of history is not chasing you there, it's not like skulls are strewn all over the place. In fact only thing which may remind you  about horrors are  tour vans and busses with '"  Killing Fileds" signs. As I mentioned people maimed by mines are very rate sight those days.

Glorious part of history ie Angkor ruins are easy to explore with good infrastructure, surely with bit of walking involved but surely rewarding and easy to get to. 1 hr flight from Bangkok and one is there.

Take you know whom and go

[Keithambrose]

10 hours ago, vinapu said:

terrible part of history is not chasing you there, it's not like skulls are strewn all over the place. In fact only thing which may remind you  about horrors are  tour vans and busses with '"  Killing Fileds" signs. As I mentioned people maimed by mines are very rate sight those days.

Glorious part of history ie Angkor ruins are easy to explore with good infrastructure, surely with bit of walking involved but surely rewarding and easy to get to. 1 hr flight from Bangkok and one is there.

Take you know whom and go

At either end of Bar Street in SR, there are two bands playing, badly, Cambodian music. They are all amputees of one sort or another. 

[vinapu]

36 minutes ago, Keithambrose said:

At either end of Bar Street in SR, there are two bands playing, badly, Cambodian music. They are all amputees of one sort or another. 

and sadly so are guys playing music at Banteai Samre temple. Still it's only a shade of what one could see in 2001 

[Keithambrose]

9 hours ago, vinapu said:

and sadly so are guys playing music at Banteai Samre temple. Still it's only a shade of what one could see in 2001 

It was just that you said they were a rare sight.

[vinapu]

6 hours ago, Keithambrose said:

It was just that you said they were a rare sight.

mercifully they are. Cambodia I first visited in 2001 and country now are like two completely different countries, so much progress was made despite all country flaws. 

Then when I asked if visiting Preah Vihear temple on border with Thailand is possible guy in travel office  just knocked on his forehead, it's close to Anlong Veng , then still Khmer Rouge stronghold. Limbless people were  begging everywhere tourist would congregate and it was bringing to tears to see they still managed to smile. And there was no Hanuman Black beer.

[Keithambrose]

26 minutes ago, vinapu said:

mercifully they are. Cambodia I first visited in 2001 and country now are like two completely different countries, so much progress was made despite all country flaws. 

Then when I asked if visiting Preah Vihear temple on border with Thailand is possible guy in travel office  just knocked on his forehead, it's close to Anlong Veng , then still Khmer Rouge stronghold. Limbless people were  begging everywhere tourist would congregate and it was bringing to tears to see they still managed to smile. And there was no Hanuman Black beer.

My guide told me there are still many areas around there that are still too dangerous to visit due to landmines, etc. 

[MarcSingap]

On 2/16/2024 at 4:32 AM, vinapu said:

Day 13.

 For today’s trip Christian PFC , famous blogger  https://christianpfc.blogspot.com/ 

who happened to be in Siem Reap at this time is joining S and me for the trip. Destination of Koh Ker and on our way back -Bang Melea.

 As before,   we departed at 8 on the dot and it’s  about  2 hrs. drive to Koh Ker. Admission 15 $.

Temple is very unusual for Angkor temples as it’s pyramid shaped and would not be out of place in Chitzen Itza or other Mayan sites. Of course we climbed it as first step, wise move as more tourists arrived.

 

After surveying pyramid and main temple underneath we surveyed about 10 smaller temples  in the surrounding forest , all accessible by the vehicle. Then returned to main temple area for a lunch  and on our way back checked another 2 or 3, last of them close to the exit Prasat Pram turned out to be second best to main temple only.

 

Then to Bang Melea. Last time I was there my time was spoiled by 2 busloads of Chinese tourist who behaved below any standards, screaming and climbing ruins even where prohibited. This time , in the afternoon , just before closing time it was much more serene and most tourists at that time  seemed to be locals.

 It used to be 5$ admission but now Bang Melea is included in Angkor ticket. Do not even try to arrive without one as guards were quite adamant to require one and even if they let you go , there’s another ticket check at main complex . Unfortunately that was our Christian’s fate but he patiently waited for s and me having driver as companion.

 Bang Melea is perhaps most atmospheric from all Angkor temples, specially if not crowded with it labyrinthine construction and deep shade from trees growing on the stones .

 

 

Back in Siem Reap I secured our driver for trip to the airport tomorrow and  three of us went for pizza to Pub street.

 

Today is my last day in Cambodia and I was proud of my budgeting. After putting aside some money for the maid in hotel and for driver for the fare tomorrow  I was left with 1$ and 1000 riels .

For said dollar I bought my last Hanuman Black and 1000 riels took home as memento.

 

As for entrainment, again  some whispers on balcony  while emptying that hanuman and another one I had in the refrigerator already.

Nosy person should ask what about S ?  Shouldn’t you give him at least that 1000 riels?  Relax , all was fixed in advance as he preferred to be  compensated in baht and in Bangkok.

 

Day 14

 

After breakfast we parted ways , S went to see his folks with plan to come to Bangkok in the evening and I at 9 jumped into car and went in style to the airport. In 45 minutes I was there, this time admitted to the departure area. Since Keithambrose already placed pictures above no need for repeat but I need to mention I notices that all signs in departure are were in English and Chinese, nothing in Khmer in their own country !

 

Great pics, always nice to read reports about Siem Reap. I see you enjoyed with S, good for you !

[zoomomancs]

On 2/14/2024 at 2:26 AM, vinapu said:

Day 10, still in Phnom Penh

 In the morning we turned fully synchronized , he wanted to go to the gym and me to Royal Palace right after they open at 8. Our good bye embrace was  quite long and then for  first time in my zillion meetings with boys in Thailand and Cambodia   I heard apology from guy that he charged me too much.

 I was quite touched  , I knew I gave him bit more than market but bit doesn’t meant twice or trice more. He told me what he needs money for and for me it sounded quite pleasurable so all I could say was ‘ my pleasure’ and there was not an inch of exaggeration in my statement. That was sweet indeed.

I could walk to Royal Palace but being strong believer of supporting local industry  I hailed tuk-tuk . Of course local industry thought I may be stupid tourist and quoted me something like 16000 for what it‘s walking distance so I offered 1$ (4000) and kept walking and of course local industry agreed ‘ ok, ok , 1 dollar” , three minutes later we were there and I spoiled local industry with 2000 tip.

 I was one of first visitors and almost felt I have place to myself  for first few minutes. Here are some pictures

 

In hour and half I completed my tour  and went to Warsaw for a breakfast hoping they will have rye bread and Polish sausage which is exactly what I was served plus some other cold cuts and cheeses. Again it was too opulent but after 10 days of feasting on hotel and Foodland treats of fried eggs and toasts I cleaned my plate.

  As cold cuts tasted surprisingly un - industrial I asked and my suspicions were confirmed. They have local source , another Polish guy who produces  sausages, hams and other treats. Chesses were from the stores though . Who would think ?, Polish ham made in Cambodia ! All that plate for 5$ ( 20000), tea included.

 Then to hotel to pack whatever little I had. On Whatsapp I contacted driver who help me  with his car in October of 2022 if he can t pick me up from the airport. I was surprised answer was immediate and on top of that he remembered  very well me and even hotel I was staying because he asked if I still will stay there. No,  this time instead of Royal Crown and Men’s  I opted for Kings’ Rock on the same side of river, around the corner from Royal Crown and walking distance to Old Market.

I guess not many tourist are hiring drivers to go to Banteai Chhmar temple so it’s how I become so memorable. He even recalled when we asked local lady how far temple is she told us about 20 minutes by motorbike while in fact it was 1 hr by car. So much about local knowledge !

 I  told him not to rush as it will be my first time in new airport and I want to walk around before  we set off for the city.

Great report Vinapu. How much is the market rate for a night session with a guy?