The cats of Lumpinee

[reader]

During my last trip I began taking frequent, early evening walks through Lumpinee Park. I’d wait until the sun was low and twilight would set in by the halfway mark. On some nights I’d make the trek with a friend who was off work but on other days I was pretty much alone—except for the cats.

I discovered the cats—or perhaps it was the other way around—about five minutes after entering the park. What first caught my attention was their lack of skittishness. Wherever I cam across one, it was obvious that they viewed themselves as being entirely at home, which is something you don’t expect from an animal that doesn’t have a traditional home.

As I made my way along the wide paths, I began to spot them relaxing on the grass and sometimes right in the middle of the road. It also became apparent that none appear scrawny or unhealthy. They looked like typical house cats but their house just happened to be a park.

In the vicinity of the outdoor weight exercise area, I spotted some felines stretched out on concrete benches. Some were being petted by passersby. I cautiously approached one and as I tried a tentative stroke, it rolled over on its back for a soothing massage. As I moved further along, I saw a few cats eating along the side of the road. Some folks are apparently providing cat food on a regular basis.

Soon I came to a bridge over a stream where a few folks gathered by one end. When I paused to see the source of interest, they were tossing bread crumbs to turtles near the water’s edge. The cats weren’t the park's only inhabitants to figure out how to get an evening snack. And if the turtles weren't quick, a fish would dart over and grab the morsels first.

One evening when I approached the bridge, three crows positioned themselves on the railing to catch breads crumbs mid-air tossed their way. And it wasn’t just these creatures that inhabit the park. Monitor lizards can be found wandering about (no, they’re not looking to be petted).

The park in the evening attracts many joggers of all ages. Everyone goes with the flow whether they’re out for a leisurely evening stroll or exercising to work up a good sweat.

Towards the end of our circuit, with twilight fully setting in, the park takes on a magical glow as the lights of nearby high rises reflect off the lake. It never fails to mesmerize me.

The best place to enter the park for most of us is the main gate on Rama IV near the Silom MRT station. A few refreshment stands are scattered about the park (water is 8 baht).