New experiences in old Bangkok

reader · August 15, 2019

From the Bangkok Post

Thanks to the extended MRT Blue Line, one of the most fascinating parts of the capital is now within easy reach

Saphan Han is one of Bangkok's oldest surviving bridges. It's not clear when it was first built, but the bridge has been reconstructed at least three times: during the reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV), King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and King Bhumibol (Rama IX). The one shown in the black and white photo was the version built under King Rama V. Like the world-famous Rialto Bridge in Venice, it was lined with shops. The current concrete version dates from 1962. Most Bangkokians are familiar with the name Saphan Han, but not many have seen the actual bridge, since this part of the canal had been fully covered by a market for decades. The shops were removed a couple of years ago as part of an urban beautification project.

The area you'll be reading about in this article is only around 1.2km². Yet, it's packed full of fascinating things to see and do, from Wang Burapha, Saphan Han and Sampheng, to Phahurat, Saphan Phut, Pak Klong Talat and Ban Mo.

To help you get a better picture of this section of Bangkok's old town, let's first define its boundaries. Starting in the north, where the new Sam Yot MRT station is located on Charoen Krung Road, the area extends eastwards to Maha Chak Road, and westwards to Klong Khu Muang Doem, the old city moat, with the Chao Phraya River marking the southern boundary.

All this is easily walkable from Sam Yot station, so visitors are free to roam the area however they want to. But I'd like to recommend a route that spares you from having to walk back to Sam Yot.

rom the station, follow the one-way-traffic on Charoen Krung Road to SAB junction, then turn right onto Chakkrawat Road. Wat Chai Chana Songkhram, Wat Chakkrawat and Chao Krom Poe, a 123-year-old herbal medicine dispensary, are just down the street.

Between the two temples, where Yaowarat Road intersects Chakkrawat Road, lies the century-old Luean Rit community, which is undergoing major restoration. Once the project is completed, the area will be a new attraction in an already interesting corner of the city. But for the time being, Luean Rit is sealed and off-limits to the public.

Incidentally, at the time of writing, on Google Maps, Street View depicts Luean Rit as it now is, surrounded by tall metal walls. However, as you move through the entrance to the restoration site, Street View shows lively scenes from before the residents moved out. It's like suddenly being transported back in time. Very cool. I recommend trying it before Google updates it.

Back to our actual tour, from Wat Chakkrawat, cross to the other side of the street and take Hua Met lane, part of Sampheng wholesale district, to Klong Ong Ang and Phahurat. Along the way, be adventurous and explore all the alleyways. You might find some delightful surprises, as I did.

Continues with photos

https://www.bangkokpost.com/life/social-and-lifestyle/1730579/new-experiences-in-old-bangkok