The legendary Madrid

[reader]

While posting about the Jim Thompson film in Beer Bar forum, I got to thinking about the Madrid restaurant in Patpong. Although he met his demise two years before it opened in 1969, Thompson would have felt right at home considering the clientele who frequented the place in its early days.  The Madrid also makes occasional appearances in the trip reports, particularly those of vinapu. And as for price, what more testimony do you need than that of Christian who finds it a good value. Here's some takes of how it's been remembered over time.

 

 

Bangkok Post (August, 2013)

 

The ornate black door with the coats of arms and shields looks heavier than it is, and opens up from the gaudy seediness of Patpong Soi 1 into a world where time moves differently _ although not necessarily slower.

 

The Madrid bar and restaurant has evolved since it opened in 1969, then catering mostly to US soldiers fighting in Vietnam and later gaining a reputation for hosting pilots from the CIA's Air America and even as a place where covert operations were planned.

 

A woman who asked to be identified only as Jenny now runs Madrid; she took over the business from her Thai mother, who helped get the bar up and running with Jenny's American stepfather. The clientele was about 95% American in the old days, including many CIA and DEA agents and US embassy workers.

 

The most famous regulars were the Air America pilots who conducted clandestine operations against communists in Laos in the 1960s and 1970s. Most have now gone: Many have died, others have stopped drinking out of health concerns, and some have moved upcountry because they find Bangkok too expensive these days.

 

Pilots are still popular at Madrid, but these days they are the commercial rather than conspiratorial kind. This is helped somewhat by the fact Jenny's husband, Andre, flies for Vietnam Airlines.

 

Screenwriter Dave Walker, who calls his recent project The Poorest Man ''a Khmer Rouge story with a happy ending'', has been coming to the Madrid regularly since 1981. Of all the changes there, he says it's the people he misses the most.

 

''I miss the characters,'' he says.

 

''It was living history. The conversations here, you couldn't imagine. These guys really lived life.''

 

Stickman (May, 2013)

 

One of the great dames of Patpong, Madrid opened in 1969 and has been popular with generations of expats. Hundreds of bottles of alcohol are stacked behind the bar, yet the single-shophouse Madrid with small booths along one wall is more restaurant than bar.

 

In a city with unlimited dining options, Madrid still compares well. Madrid opens early and the eggs Benedict is a favourite. There's a daily special but Madrid is perhaps best known amongst expats for its pizzas, amazing given that pizza is the one item of farang food that polarises expats. Who doesn't think the best pizza comes from their hometown?

 

The area above the bar is said to have been a CIA safehouse in the '70s, a place where clandestine meetings were held and planning for many missions over Laos carried out.

 

Easy to walk past, Madrid is located on the main Patpong soi, about 50 metres or so along on the left-had side if you enter from the Silom Road end.

 

The Guardian (March, 2017)

 

There’s only one Vietnam veteran’s bar left in Patpong, the notorious red-light district. When Khun Daeng and her American GI husband opened the Madrid Bar and Restaurant in 1969, the first thing they did was swap the grand piano for a record player. Soon after, it became a hangout for CIA types. Men like Jack Shirley, a legendary former CIA official, drank here. The current owner, Jenny, Khun Daeng’s daughter, has not altered the decor since the Madrid’s hey-day, and it still serves the unappetising-looking but much-loved army dish known as SOS. This either means “shit on a shingle”* or “save our stomachs”, depending on who you ask. It is a mush of chipped beef, mixed with milk and gravy, slapped on toast.

 

* I can attest that it was the former, from basic training to discharge. reader

 

Teak Door blog (November, 2008)

 

The Madrid was an old CIA hangout during the Air America days. At that time, you most likely would run into Jack Shirley or Tony Poe downing a few beers in the Madrid. Tony Poe is who the Colonel Kurtz character from Apocalypse Now is based on. The photo below is an old one from the Lucy's Tiger Den. The walls at the Madrid are plastered with photos of customers new and old. Jack Shirley is on the right and Tony Poe is sitting with him to his left.

 

[vinapu]

I almost got heart attack looking at forum and seeing tittle 'The legendary Madrid ', for some reason I thought it to be abbreviation with full tittle like " the legendary Madrid  closing next Sunday " or something .

 

With great relief few seconds later I found I was wrong.

 

Yes, I confirm I'm fan of the place and it pizzas, particularly 'white spinach ' variety ( spinach with cheese topping ), since Christian introduced it to me few years ago , no trip to Thailand goes without visiting it at least twice.

 

Last month it provided not only meal but also shelter as I reached it just in time heavens opened with deluge, conveniently at lunch time.

 

Can't comment on good value part with medium pizza costing 265 baht for simple reason, this is only place in the ENTIRE world I like pizza from so no idea about it's cost in BKK elsewhere. I gladly pay whatever they want and can't wait for repeat.

 

I have nothing of it's fame as spy den and place where clandestine operation of bombing Laos were planned as this part brings shame on all involved and disgrace to otherwise great American nation. ( for you youngsters, Laos was neutral during Vietnam war and it's bombing was illegal and hidden from American public) but it's true it has some old times atmosphere with old fashioned bar and old pictures on the walls.

 

Genius loci of place is still well and alive, when we were dining with Christian there and talking , you guessed rightly about the boys, serving lady was clearly eavesdropping on us but since we did not mention anything compromising we let her have her fun.    

[steveboy]

I almost got heart attack looking at forum and seeing tittle 'The legendary Madrid ', for some reason I thought it to be abbreviation with full tittle like " the legendary Madrid  closing next Sunday " or something .

 

With great relief few seconds later I found I was wrong.

 

I would never get a heart attack over the fate of a restaurant, no matter how tasty their pizzas, believe me!  Thank God you survived.

 

But I was somewhat disappointed to see that this thread "The legendary Madrid" did not deal with the gay life in the capital of Spain, a very gay friendly nation.  I still have to visit Madrid, I have only been in Barcelona and the city Sidges on the Mediterranean, a very gay-ish resort.  I know nothing about gogo boys there, but the gays I met there were very nice. Latinos are my second choice after Asians.

[vinapu]

 

 

But I was somewhat disappointed to see that this thread "The legendary Madrid" did not deal with the gay life in the capital of Spain

I was hungry before  dinner so I sensed correctly it must about restaurant

[steveboy]

I was hungry before  dinner so I sensed correctly it must about restaurant

 

I am hungry for nice young Spanish boys like one sees in their parades and saunas, so "Madrid" brought a different image to mind.

[reader]

I am hungry for nice young Spanish boys like one sees in their parades and saunas, so "Madrid" brought a different image to mind.

 

So instead of trying your best to take this thread off topic, why don't you post a trip report about Madrid the city.  Or post pics of nice, young Spanish boys in photos forum. Maybe that will succeed in sating your hunger.

[reader]

 

Can't comment on good value part with medium pizza costing 265 baht for simple reason, this is only place in the ENTIRE world I like pizza from so no idea about it's cost in BKK elsewhere. I gladly pay whatever they want and can't wait for repeat.

 

 

I consider it fairly priced because you're getting quality ingredients, almost all of which (except veggies) have to be imported (cheese, pureed sauce, flour, olive oil).  In Bangkok, there's no better place to enjoy thin-crust pizza and no place is more convenient--or legendary--than Madrid.

[vinapu]

....., why don't you post a trip report about Madrid the city.  Or post pics of nice, young Spanish boys in photos forum. 

great ideas , both . Steve , roll your sleeves and start typing

[steveboy]

great ideas , both . Steve , roll your sleeves and start typing

 

I don't know... ask the reader.

First he is paranoid about the thread going off topic, then he asks precisely for that. 

[vinapu]

I don't know... ask the reader.

First he is paranoid about the thread going off topic, then he asks precisely for that. 

stating new thread is easy

[floridarob]

Since Totally Oz introduced me to that place is a regular stop on my trips to BKK. The waitress is funny, she remembers what I drink and what pizza I like. Tried their hamburgers too and are good....

[Mick44]

Madrid is always my first drink when I come to Patpong 1.  Then I always go over to eat at another old staple of the PP area, and that is LeBouchon on Patpong 2.  Down on the left past the Pink Panther bar.  Very good French food, in a very comfortable atmosphere.

[vinapu]

Madrid Tavern will not return to Patpong acorrding to the owner I talked to few days ago so legend is closed permanently and for good unless somebody else will take name and premises over. 

Restaurant relocated to new location in CHAROEN Krung soi 49 and is now named Madrid Cafe. 

Happy to report food, included famous pizzas remain as tasty as ever. Prices more it less also the same. New location has two levels and toilet has the shower so bring your towel, lol. It, s in the house formerly occupied by the owner. 

Soi 49 is roughly across the street from Assumption Roman Catholic cathedral compound on the stretch of CHAROEN Krung between Silom and Suriwong. Long but doable walk  from Silom ghetto or take a BTS to Saphan Taksin and it, s perhaps 7 minute's walk from there. Once you find soi 49 just walk in, at the end  there's sharp turn left and Madrid is in 3rd building facing elevated highway. 

Sounds complex but in reality is very easy to find, just go there

Bon apetit ! 

[vinapu]

Today by chance I found this a spot on You Tube which may be of interest of fans of Former Madrid Tavern in Patpong ( now in Charoen Krung soi 49) as there are substantial  parts devoted to bar's history including an interview with Jenny , daughter of original owner,  who is familiar face to those visiting Madrid in it's new location is soi 49

 

[reader]

Thanks for posting. Makes me wonder now what became of the contents of Patpong Museum which has also since closed. 

I walk past the old Madrid daily and cannot do so without staring at the shop front that still exits. Just last week I saw a young western couple taking a selfie in front of it. 

[floridarob]

@reader want to go for a pizza next week?

[reader]

Sure.

[vinapu]

5 hours ago, floridarob said:

@reader want to go for a pizza next week?

5 hours ago, reader said:

Sure.

too bad nobody invites me , lol

[10tazione]

26 minutes ago, vinapu said:

too bad nobody invites me , lol

because nobody wants to wait till year 29, not sure if 2029 or 2129

[vinapu]

34 minutes ago, 10tazione said:

because nobody wants to wait till year 29, not sure if 2029 or 2129

those youngsters are sooo impatient

[10tazione]

16 hours ago, vinapu said:

those youngsters are sooo impatient

If you are in Bangkok in the year 2129 or any earlier year, at the same time than I am
and I am not busy with an offed guy
and Madrid still exists in Bangkok
and they still make pizza
and the pizza is still edible
and the pizza doesnt cost more than an off
then you are invited!
(would be much easier if you book your flight to Bangkok right now lol)

[vinapu]

8 hours ago, 10tazione said:

If you are in Bangkok in the year 2129 or any earlier year, at the same time than I am
and I am not busy with an offed guy
and Madrid still exists in Bangkok
and they still make pizza
and the pizza is still edible
and the pizza doesnt cost more than an off
then you are invited!
 

Free pizza in Madrid, yahooooooo !!!!!!

8 hours ago, 10tazione said:

(would be much easier if you book your flight to Bangkok right now lol)

do you mean you about to arrive in BKK soon? this is how I read whole message, lol

[10tazione]

41 minutes ago, vinapu said:

do you mean you about to arrive in BKK soon? this is how I read whole message, lol

Soon would be an exaggeration but i am working on it yes.

[floridarob]

7 hours ago, 10tazione said:

Soon would be an exaggeration but i am working on it yes.

November 9th I leave, will be safe to come

[reader]

Jennny, the proprietor of Madrid, confirmed to Floridarob and me tonight that she was careful to take all the historical photos and momentous from the Patpong location before moving to new digs.Amd she said to tell Vinapu she’s looking forward to preparing Vinapu’s favorite pizza (shallots) upon his much anticipated return.