Cape Town used to be very violent, with people living behind barbed wire fences, and signs saying, 'Armed response team in 5 mins'. In our boutique hotel, in a leafy suburb on the way up to Table Mountain, we were advised not to walk 1km to a restaurant, too dangerous they said. The 'township', nearby, which had over one million people, was heartbreaking. Our black waitress, who lived there had sent her 5 year old daughter away, as she was worried that she would be raped! Her husband had been murdered. Have things changed?